• Substrate: Freshwater aquarium plants are primarily root feeders. Therefore, provide a nutrient rich substrate. A blend of 3 parts top soil and 1 part clay, like kitty litter (unscented, non-clumping clay) or calcined clay, is a good bottom layer. This layer should be no more than approximately 1" in depth. Top this layer with some well-rinsed, fine-grained red flint aquarium gravel (or other fine gravel not containing limestone or any other stone that will dissolve in fresh water). This keeps soil from clouding up the aquarium water. Approximately 2" of fine gravel on top will do it. Instead of this soil and gravel mix, some prefer commercially available substrates such as "Eco-Complete" or "Seachem Flourite".
• Planting: Gently tuck plant cuttings and rooted specimens into top gravel layer. As plants begin acclimating, their roots will grow down into the soil. Starting with a large number of plants will help reduce the chances of algae problems. Healthy plants will dominate and subordinate opportunistic algae.

• Water: Many aquatic plants can grow well in Madison's hard tap water. When filling the tank, position a low bucket, a plate or a hand to deflect the in-coming water stream, and be sure to pour very slowly. This prevents the water from eroding the substrate and messing up the soil medium and gravel. If needed (some plants and fish thrive at room temperature), use a submerged heater to maintain water temperature between 70–78F˚.
• Lighting: Lots of choices here. Modest light-level instruments of various sizes having bulbs designed to grow aquarium plants are available from aquarium stores. Overly bright lights prompt faster growth and in some cases trigger algae growth. As a general rule, 2 watts per gallon is considered moderately low light but will support many plants. Higher levels would be in the range of 3-4 watts per gallon. For first two weeks after planting, have relatively short photo period (4 to 6 hours lights on). This will help reduce chances of algae getting a head start before newly planted plants kick in. After a couple of weeks, add photo period hours up to 12 hours per day.
• Filters: Simple and inexpensive filters are best for a planted tank. You basically want to create water movement though the tank and trap larger particles of debris in the water. Many types of filter designs on the market will do, as long as activated charcoal or chemical filtering media are NOT used in the filter. Plants will act as natural filters themselves, removing ammonia and other nutrients from the tank. Over filtering will take some nutrients away from the plants.
• Fertilization: Adding aquarium fertilizers may not be needed, because plants will get what they need from substrate and from fish waste. Over time the plants will tell you if they need additional fertilization by their overall growth and condition. Until experience is gained, we recommend fertilizers formulated for aquarium use.
• CO2: Adding carbon dioxide to water column will enhance plant growth. The higher the light levels, the greater the need for CO2 since plants will be growing faster. Many beginners create a CO2 reactor using an empty 2 liter cola bottle, introducing two cups sugar, 1/4 tsp dry yeast, adding warm water up to shoulder of container, then shaking to dissolve. As fermentation gets going, CO2 gas is created. Drilling a hole in cap allows installing a flexible air line tube to route the gas to an "air stone" diffuser deep in tank water. Fermentation is strong for 1 1/2 weeks, requiring pH checks, since acid from CO2 lowers pH. (pH is the acidity or alkalinity of the water and medium in an aquatic system. It ranges from 1 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral.) Periodically taking out the diffuser for part of each day during first week may be required so water doesn't get too acidic; pH should not be allowed to go below pH 6. After a week and a half, gas production begins tapering off. Maintaining reading of between pH 7-7.3 is good. Generally, after the end of the third week, it is time to redo the bottle. For smaller tanks, an alternative to the sugar/yeast approach is adding Flourish Excel (a liquid source of organic carbon). Some people also use nighttime aeration to help maintain carbon dioxide levels in the water. During the day, the plants are consuming carbon dioxide and giving off oxygen as a byproduct.
• Fish: In about a month, newly planted aquariums will be ready for fish. Start with a few small, peaceful community fish, the kind that are not aggressive and don’t dig down into the substrate. Small schooling species would be fine. Later, one can add more fish.
• Conclusion: While there are many approaches to planted aquariums, this one is elementary and suitable for getting a good start.

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MAGC website: https://aquarium.support/